Tuesday, 21 September 2010

James Hillman S/S 2011

Fashion Mode’s bi-annual catwalk show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout Mode once again welcomed its S/S 2011 showcase of remarkable new generation talent, with four fledgling designers.

James Hillman

James Hillman’s S/S 2011 collection was a sleek and polished parade of grey tailored menswear. The arrangement consisted of an interesting contrast of fabrics; mixing perceptions of masculine and feminine through using leather and chiffon, silk and jersey silk shorts and jacket styles.

The collection is based on three main concepts; the 59 Bike Club, an admiration for clean elements of the Teddy Boy look; which featured slightly oversized collared jackets and clean white shirts, as well as a desire for simplicity. The garments were a display of square manly elements and close to the body styles. Added details on the models included gelled back smooth hair, laced-up grey boots and metal accessories worn around the neck.

Collarless shirts and jackets strode the catwalk and a leather double breasted zipped suit jacket played with boundaries with its blue silk lined V pockets.7hoh.jpghttp://blog.artsthread.com/2010/09/lfw-fashion-mode-ss-2011-at-vfs/

S/S 2011

http://www.vauxhallfashionscout.com/vfs_video11ss17_.html

http://thefashionscoutsept09.blogspot.com/2010/09/fashion-mode-catwalk-review-james.htmlRobot vocals and an electro beat introduced this menswear collection, as the first model walked onto the catwalk with a stiff drone like direction. Hillman used starchy grey tailoring fabrics, crisply cut with understated but intricate detailing. Tiny fang like collars were sliced out of immaculate shirts, a technique that was repeated throughout on neatly slit pockets. Crushed jersey t-shirts with asymmetric cuts softened the collection, layered under biker Jackets, more traditional blazers and waistcoats. It seems the young designer took pre-existing menswear silhouettes and made ever so slight but effective edits; a simple slit here and distortion of proportion there. A personal highlight were the organza pieces, from an sheer almost boat neck (men's) shift dress to a skeletal pair of dusty grey knee grazing shorts. I particularly loved this use of androgyny and lusted after a white shirt with delicately thin sheer sleeves and a crescent cut-out where the organza met the stiff white cuff. A Triumph for Hillman's London Fashion Week debut.

Words by Lara Angol
Images by Alex Fynn O'Neill
Illustrations by Vic Riches